If you’re the fashion designer Zareena, the answer is: infinite.
A veteran of Fashion Forward (FFWD), the twice-yearly Dubai fashion showcase for local and regional designers, Zareena can be depended upon for a dazzling fashion show and typically, princess-like design.
Her show closed out day two of FFWD on Saturday at its new venue, Dubai Design District (d3), opening with a dramatic forest scene apt for the near-Halloween date. But what emerged from the smoke and twilight was not fashion darkness, but pastel-georgette-clad dryads; the better-dressed cousins to Swan Lake’s imprisoned princesses.
What took the endless stream of bridesmaid-ready gowns to the higher level of design were the finishings — heavy pleats lent weight, as did neckpieces and tunic overlays, with an almost medieval feel. Embroidery, in complementary shades of pale green, pink and gold, appeared on bodices, and flowing around the edges of skirts. The collection will be available at Fasateen, a multi-brand boutique opening at d3.
Earlier in the day, there were presentations in the smaller halls (a presentation sees the models walking in a theatre-in-the-round format, following which they stand still and guests can walk up and take pictures and see the clothes close up), most notably from Zena Presley, Mrs Keepa, Said Mahrouf and Bedouin.
Presley, like Zareena, was a study in femininity — sheer femininity. A a printed silk slip dress gets a pink, see-through oversized shirt atop; or in another version, a sheer blue skirt overlaid. Another slip dress is covered with ruched sheer black fabric embroidered with birds, a motif that reappears on tops and a matching skirt-and-top pairing.
Mahrouf turned folds and drapes — soft layers of fabric — into something architectural, especially in a white dress that appeared sculpted, yet soft. In keeping with the play of hard and soft, many of the fabrics were striped, the lines a contrast to the flowing feel.
If it’s a white dress you’re looking for, Bedouin is your label. The summer looks hinged on white eyelet pieces, pastel pyjama stripes, and satins — in a vibrant Marrakesh blue or juicy peach. The new off-the-shoulder is one side hanging off, and a dress can still be worn over trousers.
In the most themed show of the day, Mrs Keepa — launched by Egyptian-French designer Mariam Yehia earlier this year — saw models wander around a tennis court, occasionally grabbing a raquet or taking a seat in the umpire’s chair. Unsurprisingly, the theme translated into fun, retro styles — a vibe that Mrs. Keepa has channelled since her debut collection. Take away the white knee socks and tennis shoes (although 50 per cent of the people attending FFWD appeared to be in sneakers — what a change!) and there were off-court aces in a one-shouldered striped minidress, and in the printed matching suits.
In between running to presentations and shows, the occasional private party in the bar area, and the popular pizza truck, there were talks of interest, especially Stella Jean’s explanation of how she merges her two backgrounds — Italian and Haitian — into her designs without turning them into costume.
“Every look is a fusion,” Jean said. “For me it comes really naturally. Since I have both, it simply comes to me to respect them both. It’s the lucky part of being a metisse — a mix of races. I work in the direction to show that it’s more natural than you think. If we start to take that direction, we can discover and grow so much more.”
And if you think you need to be brilliant at drawing or sewing, then Jean, a protege of Giorgio Armani, will prove you wrong. She freely admitted that she can’t sketch — instead, she drapes directly on a fit model — or sew, although if you’ve lost a button, she can just about help you there.
Dubai’s Fashion Forward day two
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